📋 Order of Trades NZ — Who Goes First? (2026)

The single biggest cause of renovation delays and cost blowouts in NZ is getting the trade sequence wrong. Book a painter before the GIBber is done, or tile before waterproofing is signed off, and you're paying double or waiting weeks. Here's the correct order — and why.

The Master Sequence — Full Renovation

1

Design, Consent & Booking

Get drawings, apply for building consent (if needed), get quotes, and book your trades. In Auckland, licensed electricians and plumbers can be 4–8 weeks out. Book before demo starts, not after.

Who: Designer, council, engineer (if structural)
2

Strip Out / Demolition

Remove old fixtures, fittings, linings, and flooring. Hire a skip. Asbestos test before any demolition in homes built before 1990 — cutting into old linings releases fibres.

Who: Builder, or owner-builder for non-structural demo
⚠️ Asbestos: homes pre-1990 need a test before any breaking of ceilings, walls, or vinyl flooring.
3

Structural Work

New walls, beams, lintels, floor repairs, roof framing. Must be done before services go in — you can't run a pipe through a beam that hasn't been drilled yet.

Who: LBP Carpenter (Licensed Building Practitioner — mandatory)
4

Rough-In Services (Plumbing & Electrical)

This is the most critical sequencing point. Both plumber and electrician run their pipes, cables, and conduit before the walls are closed. Get both on site at the same time — they can usually work simultaneously. Council inspection may be required at this stage.

Who: PGDB-registered plumber + EWRB-licensed electrician (both mandatory)
5

Waterproofing (Wet Areas)

For bathrooms and laundries — membrane is applied to the shower base, walls, and floor before any tiling. The waterproofing must be inspected and signed off before tiling. This is a critical inspection that many homeowners forget to book.

Who: Licensed waterproofer (or tiler with waterproofing qualification)
6

Insulation

Bulk insulation (glasswool batts) goes in wall cavities and ceiling before GIBbing. Underfloor insulation can be done at any time as it goes up from below.

Who: Insulation installer or owner-builder (not restricted work)
7

GIBbing (Plasterboard / Lining)

Walls and ceilings are lined. Stopping (joint filling and sanding) follows. Don't rush this — proper stopping is what separates a professional finish from an amateur one. The GIBber needs the walls to be framing-complete and services-complete before they can start.

Who: GIBber / interior lining specialist
8

First Coat Painting

Paint bare walls and ceilings before skirting boards, architraves, and cabinetry go in — it's far faster to roll a bare wall than to cut around fixed elements. Usually a sealer/undercoat and two topcoats at this stage.

Who: Painter (or owner-builder — painting is not restricted work)
9

Tiling

After waterproofing sign-off and GIBbing. Tile walls and floors before second-fix plumbing — taps and shower fittings go through the tile face, not the other way around.

Who: Tiler
10

Second-Fix Plumbing

Fit off the fixtures — tapware, toilet, basin, shower mixer, hot water connections. Plumber returns to finish what they roughed in at step 4.

Who: PGDB-registered plumber (mandatory)
11

Second-Fix Electrical

Fit off switches, power points, light fittings, exhaust fans, and rangehoods. Electrician returns to finish the rough-in. They'll issue their Certificate of Compliance at this point.

Who: EWRB-licensed electrician (mandatory)
12

Cabinetry & Joinery

Kitchen or vanity cabinetry, built-in wardrobes, shelving. Fitted after painting and before final coat.

Who: Cabinet maker or builder
13

Flooring

Carpet, vinyl, or timber flooring after cabinetry is installed (so you're not cutting around cabinet legs). Wet area floors (vinyl/LVP) can go in earlier as they're not sensitive to moisture.

Who: Flooring installer or owner-builder
14

Skirting Boards & Architraves

After flooring — so they sit on top of the floor covering (easier to remove later if needed).

Who: Painter or carpenter
15

Final Painting

Touch-up and final coat once everything else is in. Skirting boards, door frames, doors, and any bare spots from the fit-out.

Who: Painter (or owner-builder)
16

Code Compliance Certificate

If a building consent was required, apply for the CCC after all inspections are signed off. Collect all producer statements from LBPs, Certificates of Compliance from electrician and plumber, and waterproofing certification.

Who: You (apply to council), with paperwork from all trades

Lead Times to Book Tradies (NZ 2026)

TradeAuckland lead timeWellington/ChchRegional
Builder (LBP)4–12 weeks2–8 weeks1–4 weeks
Electrician3–8 weeks2–6 weeks1–3 weeks
Plumber2–6 weeks1–4 weeks1–2 weeks
GIBber2–5 weeks1–4 weeks1–2 weeks
Tiler2–4 weeks1–3 weeks1–2 weeks
Painter2–5 weeks1–4 weeks1–3 weeks

Book everyone before you start demo. The most common mistake: homeowners finish demo and then try to book trades, only to find they're 6 weeks out. Build lead times into your overall timeline from day one.

Common Sequencing Mistakes

  • Tiling before waterproofing sign-off — the council can require tiles to be removed for inspection. Never tile over uninspected waterproofing.
  • GIBbing before plumber/electrician finish rough-in — opening walls back up costs more than the delay.
  • Flooring before cabinetry — you'll be cutting floor around cabinet legs and leaving exposed edges.
  • Painting after skirting boards — cutting around skirting boards takes 3× longer than painting bare walls.
  • Booking trades before demo is done — sometimes demo reveals hidden damage that delays structural work; don't book downstream trades off an optimistic demo date.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does the electrician or plumber go first in a bathroom?

Book them for the same week — they can both do rough-in simultaneously. Electrician runs cables through the wall and ceiling; plumber runs supply and waste pipes. Both must be done before the GIBber arrives. On a tight project, they may alternate days.

When does waterproofing get inspected?

After the membrane is applied and before any tiling. In most NZ councils, waterproofing is a specific mandatory inspection under the building consent for a bathroom. Book the inspection with your council when the membrane is complete — don't tile until they've signed it off. If you tile over uninspected waterproofing, you may have to remove tiles for the inspection.

How long does a full bathroom renovation take?

Allow 4–8 weeks for a standard bathroom renovation in NZ. That includes: 1 week demo, 1 week structural/rough-in, 1–2 weeks waterproofing + tiling, 1–2 weeks GIB + painting, 1 week second-fix and fit-off. Delays at any stage cascade. See our Bathroom Renovation Planning guide for a detailed week-by-week timeline.

Can I do multiple stages myself to save money?

Yes — painting, flooring, insulation, and most fit-out work (not plumbing or electrical) can be owner-performed. See our DIY Guides for what's allowed. The key is not to let DIY stages block the licensed trades — if a painter is needed before the tiler and you're DIY painting, the tiler waits. Build your DIY time into the schedule honestly.

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