A burst pipe is one of the most stressful plumbing emergencies a NZ homeowner can face. Water can cause tens of thousands of dollars of damage in hours. Here's exactly what to do — in order — to limit the damage, what you can legally handle yourself, and when you need an emergency plumber.
Step 1: Turn Off the Water Supply — Immediately
Your first action is always to stop the water. Don't go looking for the burst first; turn off the supply before you do anything else.
Find your main stopcock. In NZ homes, the mains supply stopcock (shut-off valve) is typically: - Under the kitchen sink - In a utility cupboard - In a riser cupboard (apartments) - Outside near the meter box (sometimes a toby — a flush ground-level valve operated with a toby key or flat screwdriver)
Turn it clockwise to close. The water should stop flowing within 30–60 seconds as the pipe pressure releases.
If you can't find the stopcock: Turn off at the street toby (council water meter at the boundary). Most tobys can be turned with a flat-blade screwdriver or a toby key (available at hardware stores — worth keeping one). If you can't access it, call Watercare (Auckland), Wellington Water, or your local council's 24-hour line — they can dispatch someone to shut off at the meter.
Step 2: Turn Off the Hot Water Cylinder
If the burst is near or related to your hot water cylinder, or if you're going to be without water for more than a couple of hours, turn off the hot water cylinder: - Electric cylinder: Switch off at the circuit breaker labelled "HWC" or "Hot Water" - Gas cylinder: Turn off the gas supply valve at the cylinder
Running a dry cylinder can burn out the element.
Step 3: Drain the Remaining Water
Open taps throughout the house to drain pressure and water remaining in the pipes. Flush toilets to drain cisterns. This reduces the amount of water that can escape from the burst.
Step 4: Contain the Damage
While the water is draining and before the plumber arrives: - Place buckets, towels, or plastic sheeting to contain water - Move furniture, electronics, and valuables away from the wet area - Photograph everything — you'll need this for your insurance claim
Step 5: Call a Plumber
Once the immediate situation is contained, call a licensed plumber. Most NZ cities have 24-hour emergency plumbing services. Expect: - After-hours callout fee: $150–$300 + GST on top of standard rates - Emergency hourly rate: $120–$200/hr + GST - Weekend/public holiday premium: 1.5–2× normal rate
If it's a major burst that has caused flooding or structural damage, also call your home insurance company — they can advise on emergency remediation services that may be covered under your policy.
What Can I Fix Myself?
For a genuine burst pipe — a split in a supply or drainage pipe — almost nothing is a permanent DIY fix in NZ. Under the Plumbers, Gasfitters and Drainlayers Act 2006, repairing supply pipework is restricted work requiring a licensed plumber.
What you CAN do as a temporary measure: - Apply a pipe repair clamp (sold at Mitre 10, Bunnings) over a clean pipe burst as an emergency stopper — this is maintenance, not permanent repair - Use waterproof putty or self-amalgamating tape as a very short-term patch on a minor pinhole - Isolate the affected section if there's an isolating valve nearby
These are emergency measures only — a licensed plumber must make the permanent repair. See our guide on Plumbing I Can Do Myself NZ for a full breakdown of what's allowed.
What you cannot do: Permanently cut and rejoin pipe, install new fittings, solder or press joints, or connect to any drainage. These require a PGDB-registered plumber.
Common Causes of Burst Pipes in NZ Homes
Freezing (South Island and Elevated Areas)
NZ pipes generally don't have the frost protection design that colder climates use. In Queenstown, Wanaka, Dunedin, or anywhere with significant overnight frost, exposed or poorly insulated pipes in roof spaces, under-floor areas, or outside walls can freeze and split.
Prevention: Insulate exposed pipes with foam pipe lagging (hardware stores). Leave a slow drip running from an indoor tap during forecast frost events. Know where your stopcock is before winter.
Corrosion (Older Homes)
Galvanised iron pipes — common in NZ homes built before the 1970s — corrode from the inside out. The pipe wall thins over decades until it fails. The water often runs with a rusty tinge before a burst occurs.
What to watch for: Orange or brown tinge in water, reduced flow pressure in specific taps, visible corrosion on pipe surfaces in the ceiling or under-floor.
Fix: Galvanised pipe sections need to be replaced by a plumber. Full repipe of galvanised supply pipes: $5,000–$20,000 depending on house size and access.
High Water Pressure
NZ municipal water pressure can vary significantly. Standard household pressure is 350–500 kPa. Some areas (particularly Auckland's elevated zones) can deliver 700+ kPa — above the rated pressure of standard fittings. Over time, this stresses joins and fittings.
Symptom: All taps run at very high pressure, you hear banging in pipes when taps are turned off (water hammer), valves and tap washers wear out quickly.
Fix: A pressure-reducing valve (PRV) installed on the mains entry. Licensed plumber job, approximately $400–$800 installed.
Poor Quality Fittings or Workmanship
Polybutylene (PB) pipe — used in some NZ plumbing from the 1970s–90s — has known failure rates. Push-fit connectors on plastic pipe can fail if not properly seated. Solvent-welded PVC joins can fail if done in cold conditions.
Fix: Section replacement by a licensed plumber.
Tree Root Intrusion (Drainage)
A separate category — root intrusion into clay drainage pipes is extremely common in NZ's garden-heavy suburbs. Symptoms include slow draining throughout the house, gurgling when water drains, or sewage odour. This isn't a supply pipe burst, but it's a plumbing emergency of a different kind.
Fix: Drain jetting to clear roots, followed by CCTV inspection to assess pipe condition. Cost: $300–$800 for jetting, $200–$400 for CCTV inspection.
How Much Does Emergency Plumbing Cost in NZ?
| Job | Typical cost (incl. callout) |
|---|---|
| After-hours emergency callout + 1hr | $350–$600 |
| Repair burst supply pipe (minor) | $400–$900 |
| Replace section of galvanised pipe | $800–$2,500 |
| Install PRV (pressure reducing valve) | $400–$800 |
| Drain jetting for root blockage | $300–$800 |
| CCTV drain inspection | $200–$400 |
All prices ex-GST. Auckland rates are typically 15–20% higher than South Island rates.
Your Insurance Claim
A burst pipe and the resulting water damage is typically covered under a standard NZ home insurance policy as "sudden and accidental" damage. What's usually NOT covered: - Gradual damage (a slow leak you knew about but didn't fix) - Damage from a pipe that burst due to lack of maintenance (e.g., not insulating in frost) - The cost of repairing the pipe itself (usually, only the resultant damage)
Call your insurer as soon as the emergency is contained. They can arrange emergency water extraction, drying, and remediation services that you shouldn't attempt yourself (wet gib, wet insulation, and wet framing all need professional drying to prevent mould).
After the Emergency: What to Inspect
Once the immediate burst is fixed, use the event as a trigger to review: - Check other galvanised or old pipe sections for corrosion - Check your water pressure - Confirm you know where all isolating valves are in the house - Ensure your home insurance is adequate for water damage (a major burst can easily cause $30,000–$100,000+ in damage to floors, walls, and contents)
Related: Plumbing I Can Do Myself NZ | Plumber Cost Per Hour NZ | Find Plumbers Near You